Finissimo can really be said to be the savior of Bulgari. Almost after 2010, BVLGARI Bulgari experienced a period of loss. At that time, the environment of the watch industry was about to recover from the recession of the financial tsunami. Bvlgari itself had just consolidated DANIEL ROTH and GERALD GENTA All the products are included under the brand, so the brand’s watch design has entered the exploration stage in the next few years. At this stage, they want to establish Bulgari’s subjectivity on the one hand, and on the other hand, they want to create a new Icon from the essence of DR & GG beyond the classics of the brand. Therefore, in the past few years, we have also seen the first generation. Bvlgari. Bvlgari re-enacted again and again, but on the other hand, there is also a new generation of Octo fighting to carry the brand’s basic seat; in fact, a lot of good works have been produced among these products, but flatly speaking, this batch changes frequently, Individual models that are not strong enough are not enough to establish a new image for Bulgari, until Finissimo was born in 2014.
Cal. BVL 288
Automatic winding / hour and minute display / flying tourbillon device / diameter 38.4mm / thickness 1.95mm / 24 stone / vibration frequency 21,600vph / no card spring, weight balance, ring-shaped automatic disk, no Godson winding / Needle setting mechanism
To put it bluntly, the theme of Finissimo is a thin, super-common, thin. Its external shape comes from the deformation of Octo. The technical point of the watch is almost entirely concentrated inside the movement, but it is such a single pure appeal to make it a hit. It can hit the emotions of the media and the masses, and it has occupied all the topics before launch. In addition to concentration, the key to Finissimo’s success is to continue. In the next few years, Finissimo will continue to expand its ultra-thin layout, with automatic winding after the hand chain, and a minute repeater after the tourbillon. The strength and theme of the product Finissimo quickly established its brand and became an indispensable presence for Bulgari today. The rise of such a ‘classic’ is indeed exceptionally smooth and fast.
The BVL 288, launched in 2018, is the latest member of the family. It is the automatic winding version of the Finissimo tourbillon in 2014. Although the automatic winding mechanism is added, the thickness of 1.95mm has not increased at all. Once launched, it was Bvlgari again. Picked up several titles in the world. Miniature automatic disks and ring-shaped automatic disks are two solutions to reduce the thickness of today’s automatic movements. Finissimo used the miniature automatic disks in the 2017 automatic three-pin version. By this time, the layout of the tourbillon movement is more compact. , Even the space of the plugged micro-automatic plate can not be squeezed out, so the watch factory chose a ring-shaped automatic plate as this winding mechanism.
The ball bearing fixed to the ring-shaped automatic disk itself does not have a shock-absorbing mechanism. In contrast, it uses the gap between the bearing parts to achieve the shock-absorbing effect.
The solution of using a circular automatic disk to solve the problem of thickness itself seems a bit taken for granted. It doesn’t seem to be an exciting technical selling point, but in addition to this circular automatic disk, it also introduces many interesting special structures. To complete the spatial configuration of the movement, these places are more worthy of study than the ring-shaped automatic disk. In short, the technical strength demonstrated by Bulgari here is still quite promising.
Circular structure of standard structure
BVL 288 uses a ring-shaped automatic disk as its winding mechanism, so the thickness of the movement has not increased at all compared to the bracelet version, and the relative diameter has increased from 32 huge to 38.4mm, which is all about changing horizontal space. Vertical space. The automatic disc is fixed at three points by ball bearings from the inside. Here, the same structure as the current ring-shaped automatic disc movement is used. However, the bearing itself is not designed with a shock-absorbing mechanism. In contrast, it uses the gap between the bearing parts to avoid shocks. The effect of the earthquake is a compromise. In addition, the ball inside the bearing is made of ceramic instead of ordinary steel, which will theoretically be more durable.
Crown without Godson
The automatic disk has a part to solve the winding mechanism again. The BVL 288 uses a switching wheel-type two-way automatic winding. Due to the compact layout of the ultra-thin movement, it is not easy to free up space for installing the switching wheel. The designer finally arranged the entire mechanism on the crown of the dial side of the movement. Near the bottom, the problem is that this position is also the position of the general crown Godson. The path of the two installations will just stagger each other. Therefore, they simply canceled the Godson, and changed the crown to a chain through a series of gears. And the needle setting system, because the wheel train can turn, unlike the Godson needs a straight path, it can bypass the switch wheel.
The crown does not have a dragon core inside, instead it is a crown gear, and a series of gear trains are directly connected to the rear end, thereby continuing the winding and needle system.
Crown function selected by push button
It is not easy to adjust the design of the hour and minute hands by pulling out the crown in the future without the Godson. Therefore, the movement also has a button at 4 o’clock to switch the winding and adjustment functions of the crown by pressing the handle. The switching action of the push button is through the column wheel mechanism. Since the current model equipped with BVL 288 is made open, you can directly see the operation of the column wheel during operation. It is also a kind of fun, but It would be more practical to be able to show whether the crown is currently wound or adjusted. Due to the large number of ball bearings used on the bracelet version, the number of stones is extremely small. The automatic version has added so many mechanisms and the stone number has doubled.
Homemade automatic winding switch wheel
Many of the switching wheels currently used in the industry are provided by third-party movement factories-even if the movement claims to be self-made; Bvlgari’s homemade basic movement BVL 191 also uses external switching wheels, but in fact they are in the prototype stage The use of self-manufactured switching wheels shows that the watch factory actually has the relevant production capacity. It may be because of cost or output that it was selected to be sent out in the product version. BVL 288 has a high price and a small amount, so it uses the switching wheels made by the factory directly. The basic design here is similar to that of ETA, but the parts are processed more accurately, and the internal gears and claws are also better oil-preserving. Epilam handles.
The case parts should be a complete piece from the bottom to the side, which also shows the processing strength of Bulgari’s own case factory
Sum of various watchmaking strengths
At present, the Octo Finissimo automatic tourbillon is only available in a titanium case with a chain strap, but despite not using precious metals, it still costs nearly four million. Although the diameter of the movement is much larger than the bracelet version, the diameter of the watch after the model is 40mm as the bracelet. It may be because the transparent bottom cover will increase the thickness, so this case back only opens a small window at the position of the tourbillon. . The parts of the case should be a complete piece from the bottom to the side, which also shows the processing strength of Bulgari’s own case factory.
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic
Titanium material / BVL 288 self-winding movement / hour and minute display / flying tourbillon device / sapphire crystal surface, partially transparent bottom cover / waterproof 30 meters / diameter 40mm / limited 50 pieces / reference price: about 838,000 RMB- —