Mention the Geneva Seal. Let’s popularize it here. It originates from the Geneva Law formulated in 1886. The purpose is to ensure the origin of the clock and the craftsmanship of the craftsman. The Geneva Seal is only awarded to clocks made in the Geneva area. Only watches with a mechanical movement that is hand-made and self-winding can receive this honor. The badge of the ‘Eagle and Key’ symbol of the Geneva seal is engraved on the movement’s plywood. Although it is not necessarily a good watch without the Geneva Seal, those that meet the Geneva Seal standards can represent almost the highest level of watchmaking.
The ‘Geneva Law’ has been revised several times, and there are currently a total of 12 regulations that stipulate the standards for the manufacture of movements. And it is no longer only applicable to the movement, but also to the overall watch certification. The production of watch components, the watch production process and the inspection of finished watches will also form a systematic requirement. The standards are more stringent and must be performed by an independent agency in Geneva.
According to statistics, a total of 20 million watches are produced in Switzerland each year, of which only 24,000 are eligible for the Geneva Seal. Among these branded watches engraved with the Geneva Seal, only the only watchmaker has all Geneva movements engraved with the Geneva Seal, and that is Roger Dubuis.
To be honest, I started to pay attention to the Roger Dubuis brand in the past few years. Before I became a watchmaker, I only knew a little about it. After all, for me, an ordinary watch lover, Roger Dubuis The price is a bit over budget.
The first time I came close to Roger Dubuis’ watches was when I was shopping in Beijing’s Fangcao. At that time, I just went in to see what was fresh. I remember when I watched about 5,6 watches, I had no intention of buying them, and of course the price was not the focus of my watch. At first glance, the shape is quite avant-garde, and the large Roman numerals are a bit conspicuous. The profound point is that the movement of each of these watches is engraved with the emblem of the ‘Eagle and Key’ emblem of Geneva. At the time, although I knew nothing about Roger Dubuis, at least I had some knowledge of the Mark of Geneva, and immediately felt that the appearance was unusual. Looking at the grinding of the movement carefully, I was shocked by the heavens. Every part was carefully carved, polished chamfered, side drawn, all visible surfaces need to be polished, and the screw heads were polished or rounded. Edge chamfering etc. ‘Amazing’, this is the first impression Roger Dubuy gave me.
Because of the first impression of this mark, from the initial contact to the slow understanding. I know the story of Mr. Roger Dubuis, the watchmaker and brand founder founded in 1995.
In 1938, Mr. Roger Dubuis was born on the shore of Lake Leman in Switzerland. Born from a carpentry family, he has been obsessed with his craftsmanship and persistence since he was a child. At the age of 10, he became friends with shoemakers in the village. The cobbler was responsible for ringing the bell in the local church. Because he was old, the cobbler asked Roger Dubuis to help. Therefore, while studying the mechanical principle of the church bell, Roger Dubuis also began to enter the world of watchmaking. Later, he decided to study at the Geneva Watch School. After four years of study, he entered the Longines after-sales service department and started his first job, where he worked for 9 years. After Longines emerged, he moved to Patek Philippe, the pyramid top of the watchmaking industry. In 1966, Mr. Roger Dubuy integrated Patek Philippe’s advanced and complex watch division. In 1980, he set up his own watchmaking studio and devoted himself to the research and development of complex movements. This legendary experience also seems to reveal a trace of ‘destined’ drama, the old man who has gradually become famous in the watchmaking world finally founded his own brand at the age of 58 years old.
Commenting on his career, Mr. Roger Dubuy said, ‘There are two important experiences in my career. One is the experience of Patek Philippe’s complex function R & D department, and this is the beginning of this experience. My exploration of the field of high-end watchmaking has also formed my concept of respecting watchmaking quality and traditional craftsmanship. It is because of this experience that I have accumulated in the wisdom of watchmaking that I have begun my career The second paragraph is a very important journey, which created the Roger Dubuis brand. ‘
With extraordinary vitality, Roger Dubuis quickly gained a place in the field of fine watchmaking. Roger Dubuis has achieved a perfect balance between traditional watchmaking technology and avant-garde design, and has rapidly risen in the watch industry.
In 2001, Roger Dubuis built a new building in Merlin, Geneva, marking a new stage in the development of Roger Dubuis. It can be said that the production process of Roger Dubuis combines high-performance technology and superb craftsmanship. Each movement is manually assembled and adjusted by more than a hundred watchmakers in the workshop of the watch factory. Each of these extremely complex movements needs to be carefully assembled for several weeks, monitored and executed by skilled and experienced watchmakers. A series of complex functions of the watch are completed in-house by the watchmaking factory, including professional flying craftsmanship such as dual flying tourbillons and skeletonized movements, opening up a new path for ancient watchmaking.
Regarding the pursuit of the Geneva mark, Mr. Roger Dubuy once said, ‘Strict adherence to the standards of the Geneva mark is deeply imprinted in my mind. I have accepted the education of the watch school and the traditional watchmaking philosophy of pursuing professional excellence. And in terms of experience in the Patek Philippe watch factory, all movements must do this. I ca n’t go from a high standard to a low standard. I have to follow it all the way. ‘ The only Roger Dubuis to date, with all the movements engraved with the Geneva Seal.
After I became a watchmaker, the first watch I met was also a Roger Dubuis watch, a watch from the Excalibur 42 series. Hold Roger Dubuis’ watch again, the oversized case, transparent caseback, large crown, roman numerals, three-pointed lugs at the connection between the strap and the case, these are unique to Roger Dubuis The logos gave me an unparalleled impact.
Roger Dubuis’ four top product lines can be said to perfectly explain its unique brand concept. It deeply reflects the player’s calmness (La Monégasque), the warrior’s spirit of struggle (Excalibur), the adventurer’s vitality (Pulsion), and the unique style of Velvet (Velvet).
What attracts me most is the Hommage series outside these four top product series, the fifth element of Roger Dubuis World, known as the energy source of the entire brand, a world of extraordinary machinery. The Hommage collection respects traditional horological movements and superb decorative techniques, such as the use of Guilloché engraving, enamel enamel and mother-of-pearl. Its watches are always designed with classic designs and precious materials, many of which are limited editions, showing a wonderful combination of refined aesthetics and traditional watch codes.
At the 2014 SIHH Geneva International Haute Horlogerie show, the Hommage series watch redesigned in neo-classical style brings together all the traditional features of Roger Dubuis. The new generation of watchmakers takes the masters who created this series as a model, which not only gives the watches classic style, but also makes them more distinctive and expressive. It is an outstanding work dedicated to lovers of fine watchmaking, and its back is proudly engraved with the signature of Mr. Roger Dubuis.
This model: RDDBHO0564 is a platinum watch, which is the Hommage series watch that I want to buy most. The 42mm white gold round case has a smooth bezel and round edges. The guilloché silver dial, from the 16th century, focuses on ‘decorating objects with carved, etched, and interlaced lines.’ Large charcoal grey Roman numerals, classic style and avant-garde design reappear. And the neutral color of silver and charcoal gray, while giving a delicate sense, it also gives a low-key and cold feeling. The price is also the most acceptable for me in the Hommage series. I will consider winning this watch in one or two years.
In the past, some media interviewed Mr. Roger Dubuis. He once said that he never had any dreams about clocks, but just loved these gears and pendulums when he was exposed to them as a child. And when you see him narrating that he heard the knocking sound of antique three-question pocket watches, you will understand the happy expression flashing in his eyes, and his love for watchmaking has already been incorporated into his blood.
And I, Roger Dubuis also attracted me and I did not start after my engagement in the watch industry, but the first initial contact, because of that little mark.