The big brands have mass production considerations, they will not produce square movements at leisure, independent brands do not have this level of scruples, but some interesting works often appear, H. MOSER & Cie. There are currently five basic movements, of which Cal. HMC324.607 is the latest model and the only square movement. As a square movement, the design of Cal. HMC324.607 on the wheel train has its own unique features, but its biggest feature is its ‘double hairspring escapement’ with a precision comparable to that of the tourbillon. The improvement of the starter makes people face up to the basics of MOSER’s watchmaking.
Caliber HMC324.607 / manual winding mode / hours, minutes, small seconds / power reserve display / width 32.6mm / length 36.6mm / thickness 4.8mm / number of gems 27 stone / frequency 18,000vph / double spring / interchangeable capture Vertical device, screw balance
Although not as different as the independent watchmaker brand, H. MOSER & Cie is still a young rather than mainstream brand compared to the group brand or other well-known brands. In fact, the editor also hesitated to choose a movement of a non-mainstream brand to introduce whether it is representative; however, we also mentioned previously that the consideration of large brands for mass production is that they will not produce square movements at leisure. Independent brands Without this layer of worries, some interesting works often appear. From then on, this choice may be a microcosm of the current square movement in the market. Since Perpetual 1 won the best complication watch at the Geneva Watch Awards in 2006, MOSER, a ‘resurrection’ brand that has only five models in just a few years, can be said to be famous in the watch industry. Yuanzu’s MOSER was founded in 1828, and ended its 150-year history under the quartz watch storm in 1979. After more than 20 years of silence, in 2005, the former IWC technology minister Jürgen R. Lange was appointed president and convened With the founder’s current successor Roger Nicholas Balsiger as the honorary chairman, MOSER officially returned to the watch industry with a new attitude. The so-called new attitude refers to the fact that although the new-born MOSER has inherited the original ancestors in name, the actual technology has been re-developed from scratch. Lange has hired independent watchmakers such as Andreas Strehler who designed HARRY WINSTON Opus 7 to assist in research and development. The main basic structure of MOSER’s current movement is from their writing.
MOSER currently has five basic movements. Cal. HMC324.607, launched in 2007, is the latest model among them and the only square movement. As a square movement, the design of Cal. HMC324.607 on the wheel train has its own unique features, but its biggest feature is its ‘double hairspring escapement’ with a precision comparable to that of the tourbillon. Since Perpetual 1, MOSER’s technical power is undoubted, but its beauty focuses on creative design. Improvements such as double hairsprings from the escapement make people face up to the basics of MOSER’s watchmaking. MOSER currently has the ability to make self-made hairsprings. Cal. HMC324.607 is the first model to use self-made hairsprings. In addition, MOSER’s escapement wheel and pallet fork also use their exclusive ‘hardened 18K gold’. This shows that MOSER has indeed mastered a considerable degree of basic tabulation technology. The editors do not want to exaggerate the self-control power of MOSER. In fact, they still have to rely on cooperative factories in the Jurassic Mountains and Germany, but their efforts for self-control make the editor feel very touching; using limited resources to find ways to enrich the watch factory. The strength, some of which are a little earth-like steelmaking, are different from the positives shown by mainstream brands. Don’t have a small and beautiful sincerity.
Polished using the so-called MOSER Strap method of MOSER antique pocket watches, and also engraved with the brand’s logo used in the early 20th century MOSER Seal
Details one: double hairspring escapement
‘Straumann Double Hairspring Escapement’ uses two hairsprings that are wound in clockwise directions from the left and right to provide the spring force required to swing the balance wheel; the winding directions are the same, so the two hairsprings will expand and contract simultaneously. But because one is fixed at the left end and the other is at the right end, the centers of the hairsprings of the hairspring will shift to the left and right respectively during expansion and contraction, which exactly offset each other’s center of gravity displacement. In addition, the new alloy used by their hairspring was developed with the assistance of Thomas Straumann, the grandson of Dr. Straumann who invented Nivarox, and the quality manager of the Straumann Institute.
Detail two: interchangeable escapement
All MOSER movements are equipped with ‘Interchangeable Escapement’. This mechanism was proposed by Jürgen R. Lange, and Andreas Strehler was designed with reference to ancient large timepieces; the escapement wheel, pallet fork, balance wheel and hairspring are fixed by a set of independent splints, which can be adjusted during maintenance. The group escapement can be removed separately, which is quite convenient. In order to avoid the power of the mainspring when the escapement is removed, the quadruples are equipped with a brake pawl. As soon as the escapement is removed, it will automatically bite the axles of the quadruples and lock the power of the mainspring.
Since 2008, MOSER has successively used double hairspring escapements on other models such as Mayu and Monard.
Details three: atmospheric movement size
In recent years, the watch on the market has become bigger and bigger, but the movement has not necessarily been modified accordingly. It is often seen that all functions are squeezed in the middle of the surface or the large transparent bottom cover is only a small one. Waiting for a dilemma. MOSER is very angry at this point, the size of the movement is quite large, Cal. HMC324.607 has 32.6 × 36.6mm, Cal. HMC341.501 of Perpetual 1 is even as high as 34mm, and it can almost fill the entire case in the case. On the case, the distance between the small second hand and the center is just right (MOSER calls it ‘Pocket Watch Small Second’).
Henry Double Hairspring 18K Rose Gold / HMC324.607 Manual Winding Movement / Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds Display / Sapphire Crystal, Transparent Case Back / Diameter 38.6 × 44.1mm
Details four: German style appearance
MOSER belongs to the watch factory of the Schaffhausen department. Jürgen R. Lange and Andreas Strehler are Germans. Even the watchmakers in the factory are from Lange and NOMOS. Their movements are also German. Style: Large splint, screw balance, and beautiful chamfer polishing and polishing; the polished part adopts the so-called ‘MOSER Strap’ method of MOSER antique pocket watch, which is alternately polished with two kinds of Geneva ripples on the splint. In addition, it is also engraved with the Logo ‘MOSER Seal’ adopted by the brand in the early 20th century, which makes the entire movement extremely delicate.
Henry Double Hairspring 18K white gold / HMC324.607 manual winding movement / hour, minute, small seconds display / sapphire crystal, transparent case back / diameter 38.6 × 44.1mm
Details five: universal use of double hairsprings
With the exception of Perpetual 1, all MOSER models have the power reserve display arranged directly on the movement under the transparent bottom cover. Henry Double Hairspring equipped with Cal. HMC324.607 launched four models of white K gold, rose gold, black face and white face, of which rose gold black face is the 2009 new model. In addition, since 2008, MOSER has successively used double hairspring escapements on other models such as Mayu and Monard. On the one hand, it is conceivable that double hairsprings will be fully used in all series, on the one hand People think that the original interchangeable escapement is also very convenient for the movement.
Henry Double Hairspring 18K white gold / HMC324.607 manual winding movement / hour, minute, small seconds display / sapphire crystal, transparent back cover / diameter 38.6 × 44.1mm